Joining the Peloton

We've all been there.  You know what I am talking about.  No, I am not talking about joining a cycling team or your daily/weekly group ride with a friend or two, but that particular group rides where you probably don't know 90% of all the riders, but you see a swarm of them blasting through traffic like no tomorrow on the weekends.  I am talking about group rides where if you fall behind, no one is going to wait for you (aka "drop rides").  Here in SoCal, there are quite a few of them.  The "Montrose Ride" in Pasadena as well as "Food Park" and "Como Street" in the OC are a few I have personally tried. 

Through personal trial and error, I have learned that there are some ground rules that a newbie should follow to avoid being yelled at by other riders ... usually strangers that you are riding with for the first time.

The Pace Line

One thing you will notice about a well organized group ride is how close everyone is packed in together, usually in a single line.  This is called a "pace line".  The whole purpose is to create an effective draft where the "leader" is "pulling" the peloton.  Sooner or later the leader will fall back and the person behind him will be the next leader to pull, thus effectively keeping a relative high speed because everyone is sharing the work by being a leader and pulling the group.  When it is your turn as a leader, there is a few things you must keep in mind.  First, don't try to look like a macho bad-ass by dramatically increasing the speed.  Instead, try to keep the same level of speed as the previous leader.  If you want to go faster, do it gradually in 1 mph increments and see if the group behind you are keeping up.  If you want to maintain or gain some respect from your newfound group, don't show off.  Secondly, if you are feeling tuckered out and want the next guy to pull, slowly move over to the right and signal the next one to take over.  Then hop back on the last person in the pace line.  Don't feel like you have to pull the same distance like the leaders in front of you.  Everyone is different and no one will judge you, even if you pulled for only a minute or two.  Sooner or later as you gain fitness, you will be able to pull farther and longer. 

Look ahead and mind your own business

Most of the people on these types of rides are serious about training.  You don't join these types of rides to make conversation, no matter how nice of a guy/girl you are.  You may get a few "nice bike" compliments, but you should just smile and give an honest "thanks" or "likewise" (if they have a nice bike as well).  If you start up a conversation, your speed will likely suffer and affect the pace line.

Don't look around and "enjoy the scenery" too much.  It is distracting to the other riders behind you and you may end up in an accident if you don't pay attention to the road.  If you aren't the leader, you have to depend on the rider in front of you for all road queues as well as following their line to ensure the maximum draft for you and the people behind you.  If you are the leader, make sure you look ahead for any obstacles and give hand and vocal signals to the others ahead of time to ensure safety.  If you are in the back and the roads are narrow, alert the others in front of you of any vehicles behind you that may want to pass.

Hydrate

In most of these rides, the only thing you got for fuel is liquid fuel.  Don't forget to hydrate often, even if you are not thirsty.  Every 10-15 min, you should take a few swigs of hydration.  I found an electrolyte pill helpful to fight against cramps caused by loss of electrolytes.  Do not attempt to hydrate during high-speed steep descents because the only thing you will be drinking is asphalt and blood.  Save them for flats and climbs.

Getting dropped

Almost everyone I know got dropped, especially when it is their first time.  Even now, I have yet to finish Food Park (in Irvine, CA) with the group.  It is difficult, but do not feel discouraged if you see the peloton disappear into the horizon.  It is a great misconception that the entire group ahead of you will finish together when, in reality, the initial large group gets staggered and people finish in different, smaller groups.  Getting dropped is an important and integral part of training.  Your goal is to see how much you can hang with the peloton before getting dropped in subsequent rides.  If you keep getting dropped around the same area, week after week, ride more during the week or train harder to gain/maintain speed.  Sooner or later, you should be getting dropped farther down the course and, eventually, finish without being dropped from the initial group.

Traffic Laws

In these types of rides, you may find yourself at crossroads when it comes to following traffic laws.  Most smart groups will obey all traffic laws including street lights.  There will be times when a large group will cross a yellow light turning red and will signal, usually verbally, to the group behind to "go go go" or "let's roll".  If you find yourself in this situation and you are in a tight bunch, make a wise decision and stay with the group.  Any sudden stops may alarm the group behind you.  If you are lagging behind or if there is a sizable gap ahead of you, stop and wait for the light to turn green.  If you encounter a vehicle that is a first-responder (police car, ambulance, fire truck, etc) that has an active siren, OBEY THE LAW AND PULL OVER!  Failing to stop will not only get you a ticket, but you may be charged with breaking the law.

Final Word

Cycling is a constant learning experience.  When you ride a drop group for the first time, you may get yelled at or criticized the first time out, no matter how well you followed these rules.  Don't fret ... a lot of us were in the same situation ... me included.  Don't let those comments lower or hurt your self-esteem.  Instead, learn from it or, if it was just a downright mean or uncalled for, learn to ignore it and go about your way.  Try not to make a scene and create conflict because if you want to ride this group week after week, you will most likely meet the person you are having a problem with week after week.  Most of these people will probably forget who you are the following week.  

A drop ride is a form of training.  You will get more fit at the end of it.  If you happen to make friends with other cyclists on this ride, then it is a bonus!

- James Lee

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Joys of Climbing

Have you ever got invited to a ride that involves a lot of climbing (over 3,000 feet)?  Does it make your legs cramp just thinking about it?  How many "oh, I am going to take it easy this weekend" excuses have you given when your ride buddies invited you to a mountain-side ride adventure?

First let me set the record straight here:  I am not a bike racer nor am I a KOM (King of the Mountain) of anything.  I do not make earn a living on the bike.  I am probably, like most of you, an amateur rider who likes fancy road bikes and loves to ride.  

I was invited by a good friend to go road bike climbing on Azusa Mountain back in 2007.  That was my first experience with a major climb ... 2800 feet to be exact.  In all honesty, I did not know what I got myself into.  All I remember is that when we parked at West Fork, the climb itself was immediate.  There were no warm-up flats or small rollers to ready myself.  It was in-your-face climb from the minute I threw my legs over the top tube and it didn't let up.  I remember climbing at a rate of only 5-6mph for the entire duration of the 9 mile trek up the mountain.  We didn't make it to Crystal Lake due to black ice.  A lot of emotions ran through my mind that day.  I even started doubting my cycling ability and wonder why people would even put themselves through this torture!  But after a few more attempts at Azusa and making it to Crystal Lake (and beyond), I began to appreciate the climb ... and to respect it.  "Ahh!" I thought to myself.  Now I know the "high" that rock climbers and athletes that participate in other activities that require a lot of physical endurance feel when they reach the peak.

As I have mentioned before, I am not a pro nor am an expert climber by any means.  I would like to share what has worked for me and hope you may find something that I will be sharing somewhat useful on your first major climbing event.

Just say "YES"

First things first, just say "YES" when you get invited to a climb.  Scary?  It sure is, but you will probably never attempt something like this on your own.  Always find yourself with at least one riding buddy to do this with, preferably with someone who has done this climb before.  He or she can tell you all dynamics of the climb and may point out areas such as tight switchbacks during your descent back.  I truly believe that there is safety in numbers and more people that are riding this with you, the better.  There is also a psychological factor that when you know that a group of your friends will be suffering the climb with you, you are more pumped to say "yes" to the event.

Keep it nice and slow

Unless you are training for a race that requires tough climbs like the Tour, take it nice and slow on your first climb.  There is no shame and actually, I encourage you to use your granny gears (small chainring up front and largest cog in the back).  My first climb was on a Dura-Ace 7800 group with 53/39 up front and 12/25 in the back.  Sure enough, I was on my 39/25 for the entire duration of the climb.  Now I ride a compact 50/34 with 12/27 in the back.  I still ride it on my granny gears most of the time on the climbs that are over 6% grade.  There is no use for you to try blasting up the hill, only to blow up and run out of fuel midway, not to mention cramping your legs big time!  For me, I got nothing to prove trying to go up fast.  Speed will follow the more you climb.  Trust me on this.

Clip On and Stay Seated

If you are like the rest of us and rode a bike as a kid, tackling a small hill back then usually required us to get out of the saddle.  This was due to the fact that when we rode as a kid, it was unlikely that we were on clipless pedals and rode the standard flat pedals.  Getting out of the saddle was essential since we depended a lot on the downstroke of the flat pedals to get us over the hump.  Now since we are on road bikes, this is where clipless pedals come into play.  Being clipless not only allow our pedal strokes be even, but now we have an "upstroke" to aid us on the climbs.  That is why most of us are on clipless pedals, both on the road or on a mountain bike.  Getting out of the saddle also expend more energy since you have to extert more force.  Staying seated will conserve that energy for the long haul.  Eventually you will get out of the saddle for the really steep stuff or if you want to try doing interval training on the hills (assuming you got a lot of climbing elevation under your belt).  For now, just clip on and stay seated.  You will thank yourself later.

Hydrate and Fuel Up

As with any ride, hydrating and fueling is essential during climbs.  In fact, you may want to double up on your liquid and energy foods since climbing will require more of it.  I would take a sip every 10-15 minutes and if you have a hydration pack, that is even better, especially if the climb is long.  You MUST hydrate, even when you are not feeling thirsty!  Try to drink with electrolytes to prevent cramping.  I found taking a tablet based electrolyte like "Salt Stick" once per hour really keeps the cramps at bay.  In terms of refueling via energy bar/chew/gel/waffle/real food, I also found out that once per hour is sufficient.

Stay Alert

When you are climbing, be wary of your surrounding.  On mountain-side climbs, take note on large debris on the road.  Move large stones or rocks from your path if you can, or if there are too many, keep note to see a clear path when coming back down.  Sandy areas are to be taken with extra care.  If you can't avoid sand, hit it slower and straight on and avoid making any types of lean or turns on the bike when going over sand.  If you see black ice, do yourself and your riding buddies a favor and turn around.  Black ice is dangerous and you will slip and fall, no matter how you ride through it.  Black ice usually occurs during the cold winter season and it looks like wet patches on the road after a rain.  If you see patches of snow around you and see these "wet patches" on the road, it is probably black ice.

Blasting Downhill

"What goes up, must come down".  We heard this cliché before, but there are a few things to keep in mind.  If your climb was steep, expect a steep descent.  If you are riding in a group, stay behind someone instead of leading so you can follow his/her line.  Stay about 2-3 bike lengths behind, if not more.  No need to draft on a descent.  Also remember where the debris were during your climb.  Got an itch on your face or body during a fast descent?  Just brave through it and keep both hands on the bars at all times.  For those who fear "speed wobble", it helps to put one knee on the top tube for added stability.  Look ahead and avoid looking at your wheels when flying down.  Make sure both fingers are at the helm of your brake levers in case you need to slow down drastically.  Whatever you do, don't lock up the brakes.  Modulate the brakes by squeezing the brakes in an alternating fashion (front, back, front, back, ...).  Modulating the brakes like ABS also helps.  Check your brake pads, cable, and tires prior to any climbs.

Safety First Because Accidents Last

Nothing rings more true.  It isn't worth earning that Strava KOM for getting seriously injured or killed on your bike.  Watch your speed and follow the traffic laws.

Happy Climbing!

- James Lee

Azusa Canyon, CA

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2012 Colnago Master X Light. A magic carpet ride ... made of steel.


Ask any road cycling enthusiast and you will know that carbon fiber is now the de-facto material of choice when it comes to bike frames.  With its stiff, ultra-lightweight, and completely moldable characteristics, no wonder why cyclists and frame designers alike love the stuff.  Get into a crash, however, and you can pretty much kiss the frame goodbye.  People wanting a non-exploding alternative are resorting to aluminum and titanium as their frame choice.  Both metals are fairly lightweight and are more resilient to damage unlike carbon fiber.
Steel, on the other hand, are found in older bikes, big box (aka Walmart) bikes, and high priced custom boutique bike shops ... usually with a waiting list.  A lot of them are downright heavy tanks and a cheap choice for those on a tight budget. But if you have the means, a wonderfully crafted steel bike will give you a ride quality as well as classy good looks not found on the other bikes.  Let me explain ...

Love at first sight



It was a beautiful autumn afternoon last August of 2012.  I was picking up my then 2008 Orbea Orca from the bike shop after a bottom bracket overhaul.  As I passed through the window, I couldn't help but catch this beautiful red bike on the corner of my eye.  No, it wasn't some carbon fiber, aerodynamic racing machine, but a beautifully crafted steel Colnago Master Extra Light with a gorgeous chrome plated fork and a cherry red paint scheme (PR82) that is reminiscent of the classic Ferrari 250 GT from "Ferris Bueller's Day Off" (Oooh Yeeaaahhh).  All decked out with Super Record 11 and a set of Zipp 101 (gunmetal gray ... not the black one), it was gorgeous!  The tubes were star shaped instead of round.  This was to prevent twisting (according to Colnago), which in turn increased overall stiffness without adding weight.  The chrome plated lugs were artfully crafted with almost museum-like quality.  This bike was indeed a sight to see!  I fell in love with the bike so much, I scored a deal on the exact same frame on eBay a week later and I jumped on it.  I moved over my Super Record 11 group from my titanium bike and got a pair of the Zipp 101s like the one in the showroom.

The ride ... oh the RIDE!

When the shop owner let me throw my legs over the showroom model, I knew there was something special with the bike.  Just like a European car, there is a sense of solidity.  When I took it out for a spin, I knew I was in for a treat.  One word describes the ride ... SMOOTH!  The short ride around the parking lot can be a bit subjective, but when I purchased my own, the ride of my own personal Colnago Master validated the smoothness over and over on the road.  Granted, on my own personal bike, I have set it up on road tubeless setup with tire pressures set at 95psi.  Riding it on the road does not give it that muted feeling you get on a carbon bike.  Instead, it gives you a unique sense of road feel that is quite pleasing and not harsh at all.  When I got this bike up to speed above 20mph, the magic happens.  I don't know if it is the weight of the steel, but I can hold the top speed better than my super-light SuperSix EVO!  The Colnago surprisingly gave me a better overall average speed than any of the bikes I have ever owned!  I can only hypothesize that it could have been inertia of steel versus carbon.  Don't get me wrong, my Colnago Master, with pedals and cages, weighs a respectable 18.6lbs.  It is about the weight of a mid-range aluminum bike or an entry level carbon bike.  My bike also includes the Colnago Precisa all-steel fork!  I have seen other Colnago Masters with a carbon fork running 2013 SRAM Red on tubular tires that weighs less than 16lbs!  Not too shabby for "Extra Light" in my opinion!

Is steel for you?

That depends.  If you are a racer that requires instant acceleration or a mountain goat who loves tackling the steep stuff at high speed, you may be put off by its weight (unless you get SRAM Red and the carbon fork or got the engine to match).  If you are an endurance/century rider that demands comfort and appreciate a solid and smooth road feel over long distances or a racer who wants a bike that can easily survive a major crash, then you will probably love steel.  Remember, not all steel bikes are created equal!  Trying to compare a high-end steel bike like the Colnago Master to a big-box Walmart steel bike is like comparing a classic Ferrari to a boring Ford sedan.  Sure both cars will take you from point A to point B, but only one of them will give you the performance as well as style that turns heads.  As a matter of fact, I got far more compliments on my Colnago Master than my SuperSix EVO ever did in terms of sheer looks.  You be the judge ...

- James Lee

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Bicycle Riding for Health

These days, one of the hardest things for many of us to do is to stay active and healthy. With work commitments, family, friends, and life in general, getting the proper amount of exercise can be daunting to say the least. But, there is a silver lining. Many people are now jumping on the health bandwagon by bicycle riding to stay fit. Bicycle riding is great for the obvious fitness benefits as well as perfect for staying active and vital. The best aspect about riding a bicycle for health is that you can do it alone, as a couple, with your kids, or even in a big group. There are no stipulations to a bicycle riding workout. Go on a bike ride at the beach, ride your bicycle down to the park, or simply run your errands while on a bicycle. You will be able to do double duty by staying healthy as well as helping the environment by lowering your toxic footprint. The reality is that sitting in a car all day is not the best way to stay active and healthy or to help the environment. Bicycle riding can easily take the place of vehicles by providing a wonderful alternative transportation to vehicles. And the best part, a bicycle requires no gasoline! Bicycle riding has been shown to help as a cardiovascular exercise as well as a way to build muscles all throughout the body. Bicycle riding is optimal for strengthening the legs, buttocks, mid-section, and arms. It truly is the perfect workout because it gives resistance to the areas that many people need most while also contributing to cardiovascular health that is extremely beneficial for the heart. So, next time you are looking for a fun and easy way to stay active and look great, invest a small amount in a bicycle. Your body and heart will thank you.

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Shimano Dura-Ace 7970 Di2. Realities of Electronic Shifting.

Being a tech geek in a world of IT, I am amazed with all the current technologies that are available to us.  Smartphones, GPS cycling computers, Google Glass ... just to name a few.  When Shimano introduced the new Dura-Ace 7970 groupset back in 2008 ... aka Di2, I knew I need to have it.  However, due to the initial sticker shock, I waited until December 2011 to get it.  Now that I had a good 1.5 years with the group (as of this review), I can safely share my thoughts on it.

Installation

I'll admit it ... I had the bike shop do the installation for me.  With such an expensive group, I didn't want to mess it up and I am glad I paid the pros to do it for me.  First when I had the groupset on my 2008 Orbea Orca, it had the external wiring set.  Luckily the downtube was black carbon on the underbelly so the wiring housings camouflaged well with black electrical tape.  However, it looked a bit messy near the drive-side bottom bracket, but you couldn't see it because it was hidden behind the crankset.  About 10 months later when I upgraded my bike to a 2012 Cannondale SuperSix EVO, I unhesitatingly asked for the internal wiring upgrade ... and I am so glad I did.  Internal wiring is SO MUCH cleaner and well worth the extra money.  There are no wires or brake cables on outside of the top tube, downtube, and chainstays.  If you plan on getting an electronic groupset like the Di2, do yourself a favor and make sure your frame supports internal wiring for electronic groupsets.  It is worth the extra price.

Maintenance

This is where the group shines!  Gone are the days of cable stretch or even a cable replacement because ... well ... there are no cables!  If you need to swap wheels or cassettes, simply put the bike in the middle 5th gear and press and hold the button on the junction box near the shifters until the light turns red.  Then each shift on the right shifter will move in 12 steps in each direction.  Keep shifting up (going to a harder gear) until you hear a slight noise coming from the cassette.  Then simply downshift four times and you are set.  Press and hold the button again until the light goes off.  Done!  The Di2 shifts perfectly on day one to day 500+!

Battery life is amazing.  Ever since I purchased this group in 2011, I charged it only three times.  At this rate, the battery can literally outlive me!  From a fully dead battery, Shimano claims that the battery can charge to full in 1.5 hours.  While I never really timed the charges, I believe it.  Most of the time, the battery will be charged with some charge left in it.  Just don't forget the battery if you plan on loading your bike to your car on a long road trip.

Usage

Using the group is a dream.  Like a button on a mouse, a simple click will shift the derailleurs up and down.  No need to worry about rusty or snapped shifter cables.  I really love the autotrim feature.  Shift the rear up and down the cassette and you can hear the front derailleur making minor adjustment shifts depending on where the gearing is at.  The autotrim was designed to eliminate front derailleur rub.  This feature is something a mechanical feature can never do.

Front derailleur shifting is amazing!  I thought the mechanical Dura-Ace 7900 was fast and awesome, but Di2 front shifting is a technical marvel!  I can hammer out of the saddle and shift the front without any worry.  It is that good!  Even though Shimano claims that dropping the chain is almost impossible during a downshift on the front derailleur when cross-chaining (not recommended by any means), I did put a K-Edge chain catcher for a piece of mind and I suggest everyone do the same ... regardless if you have mechanical or electronic shifting.

Worry about getting the system wet?  Don't fret!  The way the wiring junctions are connected, I can see how the system is water tight.  I rode my Di2 bike in the rain several times (not by choice).  No ill effects on shifting or shifting performance whatsoever.

Unlike a mechanical system, though, the first generation Di2 can't perform multishifts.  You can't "dump the cassette" by holding down the shifter button like the Campy mechanical group.  Campy EPS as well as the new Dura-Ace 9070 Di2 do support multishifts in a way of holding down the shifter button.  I thought I would miss this feature, but knowing how quickly Di2 shifts in general, I do not miss that feature.

Shimano also "recommends" using their own brakes, crankset, and chain.  I run a set of PraxisWorks compact chainrings (50/34) on a BB30 Cannondale SiSL crankset with a KMC SL 10-speed chain (with a master link).  It works wonderfully with the Di2 shifting group!  I have people who have aftermarket brakes on their Di2 bike.  As long as they are Shimano-compatible, the aftermarket brakes should work no differently than if installed on a mechanical groupset.  Shimano's "recommendation" to use all Dura-Ace 7900 "drive and brake" components is all a part of their marketing ploy, at least to me.

Verdict

To me, Di2 just works and works VERY well ... period!  I am intrigued with the new Dura-Ace 9070 Di2 with the multishift capability as well as 11 speeds and lighter weight, but I am happy and content with my Di2 7970 groupset.  It hasn't given me any problems and the only issue is that the electronic spare parts are expensive if needed to be replaced due to damage or malfunction.  Prices should go down as time goes by, but may never come down to prices that of their mechanical counterparts.

If you had any reservations about electronic shifting, don't.  It is real and here to stay.  It can only get better from here on out.

- James Lee

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Going Road Tubeless … a long term review!

After watching Peloton Magazine’s video on it as well as Stan’s Road Tubeless Installation video, I was getting more and more intrigued with the technology.  I mean let’s face it … we all hate getting flats! 

When I pinch-flatted both my tires during a descent at GMR last August, enough was enough.  It was then when I decided to make the plunge to road tubeless.  And so I purchased four Hutchinson Fusion 3 Tubeless tires, four 44mm tubeless road valves (with removable cores), some valve extenders (more on that later), Stan’s 25mm yellow rim tapes, and a quart of Stan’s famous Sealant.  This was enough to convert four wheels.

Now some of you are probably asking why I didn’t just pick up some tubeless ready wheels like Alpha ZTRs, Campy/Fulcrum 2-Way Fit wheels, or Shimano Dura-Ace TR wheels.  Let me tell you why.  It is because I have a set of Zipp 101’s as well as a pair of Zipp 404 Firecrest clinchers that I love and didn’t want to give up just yet.  Yes, I probably voided all warranty by doing this, but I guess someone has to be a guinea pig!

Installation

I followed Stan’s video installation with the exception of using his 25mm instead of the 21mm yellow rim tape.  The 25mm tape was needed to accommodate the wider rim profile of the new Zipps.  Getting the tire on the rim wasn’t as bad as some people claim, but it is indeed a bit tighter.  Due to my short patience and lack of bike mechanic know-hows, I wasn’t really successful with this tubeless conversion on my own.  Maybe I didn’t pull the rim tape tight enough?  An air compressor sure would’ve been helpful, too.  Air was escaping through the spoke holes and I could tell by the soapy water test. 

With my hands in the air, I resorted to let my local bike shop do the conversion for me for a small fee since I provided them with all the materials.  I mentioned earlier about “valve extenders”.  Those were for my Zipp 404’s deep 58mm profile.  The special valve extenders also accommodated removable valve cores, which is essential for tubeless setup since you can easily add sealant through the valve instead of unhooking a part of the tire bead from the clincher hooks (not to mention it is A LOT cleaner too!).

For those of you who have tubeless-ready wheels, just follow the video from Peloton magazine and you should be good to go!

Ride Quality

Upon picking up my tubeless converted Zipps from the bike shop, I mounted my converted 101’s and went out for a nice long ride.  Both tires are pumped to 95psi (I weigh 185lbs).  The difference was immediate!  One ride in particular down Laguna Canyon Road where the roads got rough on the descent towards the beach is usually a teeth-chattering experience.  Riding lower pressures has made the same descent oh-so smooooooth!  I was amazed!  Cornering was also enhanced since riding lower pressures allowed greater contact with road.  Rolling resistance, though more subjective than objective, seemed better since lower pressure allowed better traction on the road.  I experienced the same with my converted 404’s on my other bike.

People wonder about the sealant “sloshing” inside the tire.  What sloshing?  I can’t hear anything coming from my tubeless tires with sealant inside.

Now don’t get me wrong, going tubeless will NOT make your bike ride as if you had a full-suspension mountain bike.  It isn’t like that at all.  It will, however, take that edge off yet give you excellent road feel.  I rode tubular and tubeless is very close in terms of ride quality.  Going tubeless will bring all-day comfort to an otherwise stiff and harsh race bike.

Flat Protection

This is the number one reason why I went tubeless.  Pinch flatting a tubeless setup is almost impossible since there is no inner tube to pinch.  Of course you can pinch the tire itself, but you must hit something very hard and very fast to make that happen … which you’ll more likely destroy your wheels in the process as well as being hurt yourself.  And when you go get a small puncture, the sealant inside will seal it right up with very minimal air loss.  In other words, you will not get a loud “pop” nor excessive air escape like a regular clincher setup in case of a puncture.

Stan’s sealant can seal up to ¼” gash in your tires.  Anything bigger than that will probably require a patch.  Hutchinson makes a tubeless patch kit called Rep’Aire, but forums say that a regular Park Tool VP-1 Vulcanizing patch kit will work just fine.  You just need to clean the affected inner wall, apply the vulcanizing glue, and apply the patch in the inner butyl wall of the tire and let dry.  Don’t have the time?  Then remove the tire, pull out the tubeless valve, dump the sealant, clean off any rubbery mess, put in a regular tube, place a tire boot on the gash on the tire, place the tire back on the rack, pump, and go.  Another great feature of tubeless is that it can be run as a regular clincher in case of an emergency.  That is why I carry a spare tube along with a tire boot. 

Knock on wood, I did not experience a cut this big yet.  Then again, a cut this big on a regular clincher will also require a tire boot as well if you think about it.  If you got a gash this big with a tubular tire … forget about it.

Maintenance

About 3 month into the ride, I needed to top off each tire with sealant.  It is imperative to remove your wheels and let them suspend on a rack and the tires are off the floor.  I let out the air while the tire bead was still in the clincher hooks.  I then removed the valve core and added another ounce of Stan’s sealant to each wheel.  It was MUCH easier pumping them back up again after the initial conversion. 

After 3 more months (total of 6 months from initial installation), I removed the tires, flushed out the old sealant, cleaned off all the rubbery, stringy mess, rotated the front and back tires, remounted them on the rim, used an air compressor I purchased from Home Depot to “punch in the beads”, put fresh sealant through the valve core, and pumped my tires back to specs.  I have to say that after the initial conversion from the shop, reseating the tires using an air compressor was easy as pie.  Of course you can just pay the local bike shop to do this for you for a small fee (which is well worth it).

If you are going with tubeless conversion, getting it right the first time will make maintenance a lot easier in the future.

Results

Nine months … zero flats.  The ever so smooth and comfortable ride is an added bonus.  I won’t be going back to tubes again.  Heck, cars and motorcycles have done away with tubes decades ago … why not bicycles?  As Ben Edwards from Peloton magazine said: “it is more likely that you’ll wear your tire out than to flat it.  It is that effective”.  I believe it now.  And remember, I converted my sets of Zipps to tubeless and yes … they work great as a tubeless conversion.

That, my friends, is my long term review on tubeless.  After trying them out, I am a firm believer and supporter of tubeless technology.  With more and more tubeless ready wheels on the market as well as other tubeless tires from other manufacturer, prices have dropped and are competitive to non-tubeless setups.  I am looking forward to putting many more miles on my bikes … without ever worrying about pinch flats and small punctures again!

-James Lee

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Bike Ride / City Riding

Many people that live in a metropolitan area have decided to make a lifestyle change and commute to and from work and other activities by hanging up their car keys and riding their bike!

There are five very important reasons that people have decided to ride a bike instead of driving their cars.

1.      Health benefits

2.      Stress Reliever

3.      Help the environment

4.      Convenient

5.      Cheaper than buying gasoline

Riding a bike can help your health in so many ways. You can lose weight, feel better, and look better while enjoying the fresh air! A ride on your bike is much like take time to jog with less stress on your body!

Do you remember back when you were a kid and you hopped on your bike and did not have a care in the world? Well, riding a bike as an adult can give you back that stress-free feeling while giving you a way to arrive at your destination without the stress the commute from your home through the traffic generally causes before you get to where you are going. Not counting the fact that riding a bike makes you feel like a kid again! ;)

Did you know that many people are late to work or school because they have to depend on the traffic and the timing of the lights while commuting through a metropolitan area? Some people have decided it is time for a lifestyle change! Not only will you be able to navigate through traffic (where cars cannot go) you will get the exercise that you did not have time to fit into your busy schedule and save money while doing it!

Riding a bike is not only convenient but you will always be guaranteed a parking spot.  Being stuck in traffic will quickly become a thing of the past. However, the drawback to riding a bike is that you really do need a car if you decide to go on a long trip. But bikes are awesome for short trips. Driving around the parking lot will no longer be a problem!

Riding a bike is cheaper for your pocket book than driving a car any day!

Riding a bike will not only benefit you and a healthier you, it will help the environment by keeping it cleaner, and your neighborhood, by having one less car on the road!

If you have decided you want to make a change in your life, come visit our bicycle gear shop online; you will not only save money, you will have all of the high quality bicycle gear available for you at the tip of your fingertips! We have sports clothes, bicycle frames, gears, accessories, and many more bicycle gear available all on one website for your convenience!

Riding a bike will not only give you the freedom to weave in and out of a crowded area it will save you money while helping you become a better “you”!

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